A new puppy or dog should be taken to the vet within the first week of arrival or as soon as possible.
You should set up an inoculation schedule and get a complete checkup done. Bring any shot information
and a small stool sample so your dog can be checked for the presence of worms. Worms are common in
puppies and although they sound bad can in most cases be eradicated easily.
(Tracheobronchitis) Kennel Cough is a contagious respiratory infection
in dogs. It takes its name from the fact that dogs often catch it while
boarding at a kennel where they are exposed to other dog who either have
the disease or are carries of it. It is mentioned here because many a puppy
that goes through the shipping process can be exposed to the virus. They
may be housed with many carriers. Although breeders may have inoculated,
there are no inoculations totally effective due to the many different strains.
They may also be totally unaware of the presence of this airborne virus
in their kennel. Kennel Cough will generally run its course in a week or
two. Over the counter cough suppressants are often used to relieve the
irritation along with antibiotics to prevent secondary infection.
Ticks can visibly be seen clinging
to the dogs skin and can be removed with a pair of tweezers. Disinfect
the area with alcohol after removal.
THE TRAINING CORNER
STARTING ON THE RIGHT FOOT
So this is your first dog, or you haven’t raised a puppy in ten years! This article was intended to refresh or guide those in making the puppies transition to its new home smooth.
Preparation for things to have on hand before the puppy arrives are: Crate, food and bowls, (not plastic), chew toys, proper bedding, collar and leash. (very inexpensive, they will outgrow it rapidly).
Remember, when your puppy first comes home he is like a new born baby. He knows nothing about life and the proper ways to act. You must teach him everything, from potty training to advanced commands.
Now would be a good time to talk about the developmental stages that a puppy goes through. Designing a good environment for the development of a puppy depends upon knowledge of the periods of development. It is, of course, important at all ages to provide adequate nutrition and to prevent disease. Beyond these requirements ideal care varies from period to period. In the neonatal period a normal mother will provide optimal care for her puppies. If you are raising a litter yourself, attention should be concentrated upon making sure that the mother is well nourished and allowed to care for her puppies undisturbed. The most that the owner needs to do is to inspect the puppies once a day for possible illness or accidents. This inspection may lead to secondary benefits. Experiments strongly indicate that young animals benefit from the stimulation of handling.
In the period of socialization there are two basic rules for producing a well-balanced and well-adjusted dog. The first of these is that the ideal time to produce a close social relationship between a puppy and his master occurs between 6 and 8 weeks of age. This is the optimal time to remove a puppy from the litter and make it into a house pet. If this is done earlier, especially at 4 weeks or before, the puppy has little opportunity to form normal social relationships with other dogs. It will form close relationships with people but may have difficulty adjusting to its own kind even in mating or caring for puppies. On the other hand, if primary socialization with people is put off to a much later period (the outside limit being about 12 weeks), the social relationships of the puppy with other dogs may be very good, but he will tend to be timid and to lack confidence with people. But with diligence the pup can be worked through this too. Although all dog breeds have the capacity to develop a close social relationship with people, the importance of this relationship varies with the dog’s future use. A strong relationship is highly important with pet dogs, working dogs, and those hunting dogs which work under close direction.
The second general rule is that the young dog should be introduced, at least in a preliminary way, to the circumstances in which it will live as an adult, and this should be done ideally before 3 or 4 months of age. The young puppy from 8 to 12 weeks is a highly malleable and adaptable animal, and this is the time to lay the foundation for its future life work.
A puppy needs to be properly socialized with humans and should be well educated about the outside world. If he is left isolated within the confines of a singular existence you will have a terrified dog creating extreme behavior that could lead to biting or a panic response.
IMPORTANCE OF A CRATE
A recommended procedure to prevent problems is based on several canine tendencies. These are the pup’s preference to bed down with, or in the presence of others, to bed down in a sheltered, den-like atmosphere and to learn through association.
1. The home should be large enough for an
adult dog to stand and turn around unimpeded. A wire home is recommended
for proper ventilation and so the dog can see its surroundings.
This Procedure Has Several Advantages:
The pup should now be left in the home over two to three hours. The amount of time depends on the dog. In any event, if the dog has been crate-trained, the owners will never find it necessary to rehome the animal because of destructive behavior occurring during their absence.
Don’t expect to completely housebreak a puppy under 14 weeks of age. Very young puppies can’t hold bladder and bowel movements for long periods. If you take the following guide lines into consideration, the task of housebreaking should move along much easier.
1. Feed your dog a nutritious diet on a
consistent time schedule and he will eliminate on a consistent schedule.
The secret to housebreaking is to understand two things: 1. Again remember that dogs are pack animals, a dog’s pack instincts allow him to respect and respond to a strong, clear leader, and 2. That the dog is a den animal by nature, with an instinct to keep his den clean. So, the simplest and quickest way to housebreak is to take advantage of his instincts and housebreak the natural way—using a crate to simulate denning.
Purchase and use a crate which the dog will learn to regard as his den. With very few exceptions, he will not soil his quarters unless he is ill and can’t help it. And, of course, you will need to set up a schedule that he is ale to maintain. You will also take him from his crate directly outdoors before he relieves himself, and your house will stay clean, too! Following are some sample housebreaking timetables to help you set up your own housebreaking schedule. You MUST use a strict but not a hard hearted system.
DONT’ START BAD HABITSOne of the most important things to learn in early training, is to not start bad habits. What we think is cute now may come back to haunt us later. Some of the bad habits that we start our puppies doing end up being paid for later on. The following is a list of common ones that most pet owners make.
Spoiling, remember, you have purchased a dog and not a child. Dogs are not capable of thinking like a human beings. Remember that we are training them in a fashion that they can relate to and understand.
Feeding table scraps, some people food every now and then is ok, but when your dog won’t eat his own food that becomes a problem. Being a dog, they require the nutrition and balance that good “dog food” contains. Of course if you choose to cook for your dog and supply him with the proper requirements, you can. Just don’t expect him to start eating dog food ever again.
Rushing to the puppy every time it whines. To a dog, negative attention is just as fulfilling as positive attention. If you pick him up every time he demands it, you’ll be carrying him around all the time. Not only is that unreasonable, it also makes him unable to be by himself with any confidence. At one time or another, the dog will be left by himself. So it’ s better to have a well adjusted dog to begin with.
Jumping up on people. You may feel it’s ok to jump on you because you say “He just wants to show his affection”. But you won’t appreciate it when those cute little muddy feet are on your best pair of pants and your rushing out the door for an appointment. Also company will say “Oh I don’t mind”, but they most certainly do. They’re just being polite.
Letting the puppy wander off leash. If they stay beside you that’s fine, but once they go off and do not return it becomes a problem. You are now allowing the puppy to have a mind of its own and think it is ok to just go where ever he pleases. What he doesn’t know is that the neighbors do not like him eliminating in their yard or that cars can kill him.
Improper toys are allowing the puppy to play with articles that lead to improper behavior. Some examples are your shoes, snatching your towels or clothing, and anything your house is made of. Playing fetch with a stick leads to coming back to chew on your coffee table which is also made of wood. Cloth tug of war toys lead to pulling down curtains and some times the apolstery of the furniture. Rawhide is the basis for most shoe chewing and the danger is that small pieces can break off, get swallowed and then swell in their intestines leading to blockage. Proper toys include latex balls, frisbee’s, nylabone or gummybone. Basically puppies develop association behavior and if not channeled properly from the get go, can develop into real problems later.